Prologue

Early this year, my Canadian second cousin Ted Osborn and I decided we would make reciprocal trips to each other’s countries in our respective spring seasons.

So here I am in British Columbia, Western Canada, being hosted by Ted on a thoughtfully planned three-week visit.

For background, I should explain that my wife Gail and I visited Canada around August 1970, towards the end of our year overseas, when the previous generation of the Canadian branch of the Osborn family (Mum was an Osborn, and I carry “Osborn” as one of my three first names) generously hosted us for around three weeks as we were working our way home—stone broke! We were in our late 20s.

The families had a lot in common. Anglophiles living in the ‘new world’, heavily into agriculture. The Canadian doyen in those days was Clendon Deason Osborn, known widely as “Bill”, my mother’s first cousin. Bill’s father and my grandfather were brothers. One in Canada, one in Australia and a third stayed in England. Their father was a prominent medical doctor in Dover, England.

Bill and his son Ted, with their respective wives, have since made several visits to Australia and became good friends with our closest friends – the Youngs at Walcha. Now Ted and I, both enjoying good health in our mid-eighties, are embarking on our respective visits. 

Wednesday, 21st May

I departed Sydney on a Canada Air Boeing 777, flying direct to Vancouver. I crossed the international date line, and to my daughter Kate’s fascination, arrived thirty minutes early, before I started.

There are quite uncanny facial likenesses between the cousins, and Ted and I had no trouble recognising each other. We embarked on a regimented programme of walking, designed to help me minimise my ‘jet lag’ and adjust to local time.

Vancouver is almost unrecognisable from the city I visited 55 years ago. It features high-rise apartment buildings tastefully set among waterfront parklands.

We stayed with Ted’s daughter Jill, her husband Glenn and Ali, their delightful daughter. Jill, who spent most of 1985 in Australia, and Glenn are busy senior medicos.

Thursday, 22nd May

We breakfasted at a pleasant restaurant within walking distance, where Ali has been working (50% discount!). Then we crossed to Granville Island—markets, etc. We had an enjoyable light dinner at Glenn’s Yacht Club, near where their boat is moored, just down the road from their townhouse. It’s all so conveniently located.

Friday, 23rd May

We walked to central Vancouver and then caught a bus to the home of Phill and Moira Dobson. There, we had a pleasant sandwich lunch and a good discussion on current affairs issues—there was much common ground.

Glenn picked us up, and we returned to his and Jill’s townhouse to prepare for the boat (their’s) trip to Keats Island, where they have a very comfortable log cabin. This was the most wonderful boat trip, including coming across two Minke whales. Lots of goods for the cabin. A boating hazard is floating stray tree logs, which, if hit, can do considerable damage, so a constant lookout is necessary.

Saturday, 24th May

Ted and I did a long walk through Plumper Cove Marine Provincial Park, adjoining three blocks of land, one of which is Glenn and Jill’s cabin. A well-maintained path through heavy timber, which many years ago had been clear-felled. We then boated across to the substantial town of Gibsons on the extended mainland for a truly delicious seafood lunch and some hardware shopping.

A feature of island life is the strong sense of community, with much sharing and informal visits from neighbours’ dogs and their owners.

Sunday, 25th May

After a needed sleep-in followed by the routine spa complete with apple juice and bubbly, a late breakfast then busy with various gardening chores.

In the evening, we headed back to Vancouver by an alternative sea route encircling Bowen Island. Lovely views of snow-capped mountains – an interesting approach to the city. An enjoyable dinner at a local Italian restaurant with Glenn, Jill, later joined by the ever sparkling daughter, Ali.

Monday, 26th May

A mid-morning departure for Whistler with Chad (Ted’s middle-aged son) at the wheel. Spectacular scenery with great coastal and mountain views. Lunch in Squamish, a visit to Shannon Falls, then an exciting cable car ride on the relatively new Sea-to-Sky Gondola. Then on again to the Swiss like Whistler skiing mecca and Glenn and Jill’s ‘condominium’. Very comfortable, followed by exploratory walks and dinner (at the bar) of an upmarket restaurant.

Tuesday, 27th May

An early start (6:30 AM) for a 5-hour-plus drive encircling Vancouver to Osoyoos at the southern end of the Okanagan Valley. A really interesting drive through lots of snow-capped mountains. Initially south-east to close to the US (now the enemy!) border, then mainly east. Many of my 55-year-old impressions were corrected. Staying at a very comfortable “Walnut Beach Resort” amidst lovely clear lakes, again a stone’s throw from the US border. Very enjoyable dinner at a Goonoo Goonoo-like restaurant at a local vineyard.

Wednesday 28th May

An 8:00AM walk along the lake’s edge before breakfast and exploring the district. Great views (and photos) from a peak on the eastern side. Visited a Desert Cultural Centre very well done by First Nation Indians. It seems to me that there is genuine respect here for their 10,000 year history. They appear enterprising, and whilst there are considerable financial benefits, I don’t sense a victim’s attitude.

The days have been pleasant with the peak temperature today well over 30C. Returned to the resort for a much-needed sleep in mid-afternoon. Another winery dinner in broad daylight with great mountain views.

Thursday, 29th May

We headed north up the Okanagan Valley. Picturesque towns – Penticton, Summerland, Peachland, surrounding the various lakes. At a sparkling Kelowna, we crossed to the east side of the lake and caught up and lunched with Chad’s likeable mate Joe Altwasser. Then a fast drive off the main route along the western side of the Okanagan Lake into the modern city of Vernon. Caught up with Ted’s daughter Joanne, husband Rolfe and their lovely daughter Anna, at the ever so comfortable adjoining residences, built on what used to be part of the Coldstream Ranch range. The country looks lush. I am suffering from a very sore throat – Covid?

Friday, 30th May

My first “shake” on the trip for breakfast. Then a shopping visit with Ted and a sandwich lunch at the Kalamalka Country Club on the well-kept lawns beside Kalamalka Lake. Long sleep with a very sore throat before dinner with Joanne, Rolf, Peter, Anna, Chad and Ted. Good conversation.

Saturday, 31st May

After a disturbed night with this wretched head cold, we went off to lunch at the very high new Golf Clubhouse Restaurant overlooking the valley, hosted by Ted’s sister Diane and husband Geza, whom we hosted in Australia in 2004. We caught up with family developments over the intervening years over lunch and subsequently at their very comfortable home.

Sunday, 1st June

The day was focused on exploring the Coldstream Valley, including the fascinating gravel business interlocked with the Ranch soil improvement program. All greatly assisted by Ted’s deep knowledge of the business and his family history. Another convivial dinner with Rolf, Joanne and family on the balcony in the long twilight.

Monday, 2nd June

With Joanne at the wheel, we headed further up the Okanagan Valley. Beautiful scenery of fertile river flats, lakes and mountain passes. North, then east, through the mountains, including Rogers Pass, and southeast, through Golden to Radium Hot Springs. The latter has an appealing Austrian feel – The Tyrol Motel and the ambience of the Olde Salzburg restaurant.

Tuesday, 3rd June

Quite a long drive mostly south on the now usual excellent roads. More mountains and lakes through Crowsnest Pass, almost to the US border. As we got closer to Waterton, we were in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in Alberta, with the country opening up for the first time since we left Vancouver.

Wednesday, 4th June

A full day in the Waterton Lakes National Park. First, a visit to the nearby Cameron Falls, then a scenic mountain drive to the Red Canyon. A tour of the very Scottish Prince of Wales Hotel, a spectacular building atop a nearby hill. We then drove a few miles to Cameron Lake, set against a massive Mt Custer, which is over the border in the USA. We did a 3.7km walk along the western side of the lake. This, we are warned, is bear country, and on the drive home, we saw a young black bear beside the road.

Thursday, 5th June

Our first taste of gravel roads as we headed mostly north to the “Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump”, World Heritage Site, north west of Fort Macleod, still in Alberta. A good look at the prairies off the beaten track. An extraordinary site to record how Indian tribes of old slaughtered buffalo by carefully positioning herds, then causing a stampede over a small cliff. Fascinating!

Then on through Calgary, which has had enormous population growth, now over 1.6 million! At Banff, we visited the falls on the Bow River and drove around the famous Fairmont Hotel and golf course. An attractive old worlde, modern city encircled by majestic mountains. The renowned Lake Louise is now restricted for visitors, and we went on to Golden, calling at two beautiful lakes and viewing a very long train traversing the famous loop.

Friday, 6th June

We visited Rogers Pass and learnt much of its history, particularly as it relates to the building of the railway, the railway tunnels below the existing road, and the loops further east to climb into the Rockies. This was continued at the very impressive Railway Museum at Revelstoke. From there, we continued through the mountains and returned down the Okanagan Valley to Vernon after a very interesting and memorable trip. 

We had a lovely light dinner on the balcony, meeting Rolf and Joanne’s other daughter Elizabeth and her fiancé James for the first time.

Saturday, 7th June

A good night’s sleep, in my comfortable self-contained quarters was very welcome. After breakfast, Ted took me up the nearby mountain to the Silverstar sky resort, which I had heard so much about. Then, we had another pleasant lunch by Kalamalka Lake.

Very enjoyable family dinner to celebrate Elizabeth’s graduation with Joanne and Rolfe hosting the wider family including Rolf’s parents

Sunday, 8th June

Lazy day watching Tom Holland interviews and lectures on YouTube.

Monday, 9th June

I have been looking forward to visiting the very well-known Douglas Lake Ranch – the most prominent ranch in Canada – with Ted Osborn and Neil Woolliams. Neil managed the ranch from 1960 to 1980. 

The visit proved better than my high expectations. We approached the property via Westwold, which struck me as the back entrance, on a gravel road through mountainous country, much of which has been burnt in fires in recent years.

The ranch has very well-presented structures and reflects a sense of scale, pride, and caring. You emerge from the heavily timbered mountains into more open rolling country with the inevitable river flats, which are such a feature of the Okanagan. 

We were greeted by a very impressive young manager, Phil Braig, who we joined in his spacious, comfortable office for quite a lengthy discussion on the beef industry and ranch operations. Enhanced by Ted’s wide knowledge and Neil’s long association with the ranch. Phil’s responsibilities include another four ranches as well as Douglas Lake. Douglas Lake is a mixture of what they call “deeded” land and access to crown grazing land, totalling some 500,000 acres. The cow herd on the five ranches consists of 15,000 breeders, including first calvers. The 5,000 acres of irrigated river flats are dedicated to feed production for winter feeding when the whole herd is in feedlots. The heavier weaner steers are sold to feedlots in Canada and the US – 300kgs plus, and the lighter steers are put out on the range until they attain 450/500 kgs. They are then also sold to the feedlots before the following winter. The ranch is transitioning from Hereford/ Angus/Charolais crosses to pure Angus.

An important manpower component is labourers from Mexico who are engaged mostly in feed production from the irrigated land.

We returned to Vernon by the “front door” through Kamloops.

Tuesday, 10th June 

An interesting breakfast at a local restaurant with some of Ted’s close friends, including Geza, Dianne, and Neil and Jill Woolliams. Much interest in the “blow-in” (me) with Neil and Ted providing most of the background!

Afterwards, Ted took me for a drive into the Provincial Lake Kalamalka Park, purchased some years ago from the Coldstream Ranch, fronting the north-eastern end of the lake (Cousens Bay). We called in on the property of Bob and Lill Weatherill (who had been at breakfast) and admired their lovely garden and home. Gail would have loved it.

Wednesday, 11th June 

Ted took me for another drive to the relatively recent ‘big home’ development on Predator’s Ridge. We then visited the Allan Brooks Nature Centre. Here there is a mural of native vegetation and animals painted by Andria Toth, Geza and Dianne’s artist daughter, who tragically died of breast cancer in her middle age.

Great views of Vernon and its three lakes.

After fond farewells with Joanne, Rolf and Anna,  Ted and I headed for Kelowna Airport only 40 minutes drive south of Vernon. Fortunately we were early as my flight to Vancouver was seriously delayed due to congestion at Vancouver (and subsequently cancelled), but I was able to catch an earlier delayed flight in plenty of time for the Vancouver-Sydney connection. 

So here I am onboard a very comfortable Air Canada flight (front end) being waited on hand and foot by obliging attendants, bumping along the 14-hour flight back to Sydney; feeling very happy after an ever-so-enjoyable and interesting re-connection with the impressive Canadian Osborn (and Woolliams) family.

I am so grateful for the considerate, warm welcome and exposure to their family life. I look forward to Ted’s reciprocal visit in October/November this year. He has set a high bar.